<![CDATA[East Shelbyville Animal Clinic - Pet Health]]>Fri, 06 Oct 2017 19:21:33 -0700Weebly<![CDATA[This examination is recommended at least annually and sometimes more frequently. Here's what to expect.]]>Fri, 06 Oct 2017 13:20:39 GMThttp://eastshelbyvilleanimalclinic.com/pet-health/this-examination-is-recommended-at-least-annually-and-sometimes-more-frequently-heres-what-to-expect Importance of Wellness ExamsVeterinarians recommend regular wellness exams for the same reason your physician and dentist recommend them – if you can detect a problem in its early stages, it's more likely to be treated and resolved with less expense, less difficulty and better success.
As the saying goes, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Vaccinations, heartworm prevention and routine deworming are important components of wellness care and can prevent diseases that are not only life-threatening, but very expensive to treat.
Your veterinarian can recommend a wellness program based on your pet's breed (some breeds are predisposed to certain health problems), age, lifestyle and overall health.
See Also:
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<![CDATA[Fact: Female dogs are more prone to developing urinary tract infections.]]>Tue, 03 Oct 2017 13:02:57 GMThttp://eastshelbyvilleanimalclinic.com/pet-health/fact-female-dogs-are-more-prone-to-developing-urinary-tract-infectionsDoes Your Dog Have a Urinary Tract Infection? Learn the Symptoms

BY DR. MARTY BECKER DVM | 25 MARCH 2014​

Have you ever had a bladder infection? Anyone who has is familiar with the aching, urgent feeling of needing to go right now and then only dribbling out a tiny bit of urine. You call your doctor, describe your symptoms, he prescribes antibiotics, and that’s the end of it.
It’s not so easy with dogs. Urinary tract infections (UTIs) and urinary tract stones are common in dogs. Because these conditions can be painful, it's important to know what to watch for in your dog.

Signs of Urinary Tract Problems

When dogs get UTIs, they may strain or have difficulty urinating, it may be painful for them to urinate, and they may have blood in their urine.
Breaking housetraining is another possible sign of a bladder problem. You might not know that there’s blood in your dog's urine unless you see a pinkish stain on the carpet where he had an accident. Or you may notice that when you’re gone, your normally well-behaved dog is peeing near the door and producing a large volume of urine. It helps to be super observant about your dog’s urination habits so you will notice if he seems to be straining or taking longer than normal to urinate.
Take your dog to the veterinarian if you notice the following signs:
  • Frequent urination
  • Breaking housetraining
  • Blood in the urine
  • Dribbling urine
  • Crying out while urinating
  • Straining to urinate
  • Frequently or obsessively licking the genital area
Determining the Cause

To get a diagnosis, your vet will need to analyze a urine sample for the presence of white blood cells, which signal infection, or crystals, which suggest that the dog may have bladder stones. A urinalysis is a start, but culturing the urine — taking a sample and letting bacteria grow — allows us to know for sure if there’s an infection and identify the bacteria causing it. It usually takes a few days to get the results of a urine culture.
Without a culture, your veterinarian can’t know exactly which antibiotic to prescribe or even if one is necessary. Because of the risk of developing antibiotic-resistant bacteria, we don’t like to prescribe antibiotics unless they are absolutely necessary and we know exactly which bacteria to target.
A culture also tells us other things about what might be causing the problem. For instance, it’s a long, hard slog for bacteria to make it all the way up the male urethra. We don’t see as many bladder infections in males because of that, so when they do have one, we know that something more serious may be going on, such as kidney or prostate infection or stones that are affecting the urinary tract.
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<![CDATA[This condition in dogs can often look like pink eye.]]>Fri, 22 Sep 2017 14:13:14 GMThttp://eastshelbyvilleanimalclinic.com/pet-health/this-condition-in-dogs-can-often-look-like-pink-eye​Conjunctivitis in Dogs
OverviewThere are numerous situations that can cause your dog’s eyes to look red and irritated, the most common being conjunctivitis, which is an inflammation of the outermost lining of the eye and/or eyelids.
Conjunctivitis happens when the protective tissue that prevents dirt and debris from getting into your dog’s eyes becomes inflamed. While your pet most likely looks as though he hasn’t slept in weeks, with swollen, red eyes, once conjunctivitis is detected, it can be treated quickly with almost immediate improvement.
There are several common causes of conjunctivitis, including:
Certain diseases, chemicals, molds, foreign materials, smoke and shampoos can also cause conjunctivitis. Sometimes, problems with your dog’s tear production can also cause this issue.
There are many other conditions that may look like conjunctivitis; some of these are easy to fix while others are more serious, requiring extra attention. Consult your veterinarian, who will probe to identify what is troubling your teary-eyed friend.
Diagnosis/Treatment
If you think your dog has conjunctivitis, contact your veterinarian who will most likely perform a complete ophthalmic examination, including a few eye-specific tests to confirm the diagnosis of conjunctivitis and exclude more serious conditions.
Your veterinarian will advise you regarding the best way to care for your best friend’s eye(s). One of the most common treatments is to apply eye drops or ointment to the affected eye. Having your dog sit still while you apply the medication can be a challenge. For helpful tips, see how an expert applies eye drops to a dog.
Prevention
Because there are so many different causes of conjunctivitis, there is no single preventive method that works for every situation. To help your dog reduce the risk of eye problems, check her eyes daily for any obvious signs of irritation, such as redness or tearing. Most important, contact your veterinarian if you suspect your dog’s eyes look irritated or inflamed!
If you have any questions or concerns, you should always visit or call your veterinarian – they are your best resource to ensure the health and well-being of your pets.
Related symptoms: 

Red Eye
Inflammation
Reviewed by: 
Peter Kintzer DVM, DACVIM
Reviewed on: 
Monday, May 5, 2014
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<![CDATA[How to help a blind dog live a full life]]>Thu, 21 Sep 2017 12:12:46 GMThttp://eastshelbyvilleanimalclinic.com/pet-health/how-to-help-a-blind-dog-live-a-full-lifeWhat to Expect When a Dog Goes Blind (And How to Help Him Adapt)
BY LINDA LOMBARDI | MARCH 24, 2014
Credit: Kristen Seymour, Vetstreet
Floyd suddenly went blind four years ago, but he is still healthy and happy.Sarah Vaughn’s dog, Floyd, went blind suddenly four years ago. “I was distraught," she says. "I thought this was the end.” Her reaction isn’t unusual. It’s upsetting to see a beloved pet confused, and most owners are entirely unprepared for how many routine activities are affected.
“The day that I completely lost it was when I took him to the vet and he wouldn’t get out of the car because he couldn’t see to jump down,” says Vaughn, who found herself unable to figure out how to get her 90-pound dog out of her vehicle.
But although Floyd was already 10 at the time, he recently celebrated his 14th birthday and is doing rather well. That wouldn’t surprise Jean Stiles, professor of ophthalmology at Purdue University College of Veterinary Medicine. When a client comes to her with a newly blind pet, reassurance is the first order of the day.
“The first thing I tell them is that the vast majority of dogs will adapt and learn to get around,” she says. “They are still going to be happy, wonderful pets, although they may go through a period of confusion and difficulty.”
Still, it’s a big transition for both dog and owner, so it’s reassuring to know what to do to help your pet, as well as what to expect.
Safety FirstDogs are individuals and react in different ways to losing their sight. But for all of them, there are some things you should do at the start.
“The first thing is to keep the dog safe,” says Caroline Levin, author of Living With Blind Dogs. This may mean blocking off stairs or a swimming pool or putting cushioning around sharp things like the edge of a coffee table.
If your dog is crate trained, take advantage of safe downtime in the crate when you can’t supervise. If not, consider using baby gates to restrict him to a few rooms, or use what’s called an x-pen, which is a freestanding fence you can use to keep the dog in a limited area in the house.
“During this time when everyone’s adjusting, it makes life a little easier,” she says. “Give them a smaller space to map out at first, then extend it.”
Having a way to confine the dog at first can also help if the dog is having housetraining accidents, and it is especially helpful if you have more than one dog — you can separate them at feeding time if the sighted dog is stealing the blind one’s food.
Add Non-visual CuesAs your dog is learning to find his way around, keep to a routine and try not to move furniture. Then, think about where to add tactile clues to identify important locations.
“If you have hardwood floors, put a stair runner at the top of the stairs that’s a cue to them that’s where the stairs start,” Levin says. You can also put bowls on a surface that feels different from the rest of the floor, and even try having a carpet runner or other distinct surface that leads to them.
Tactile cues can also help a dog avoid obstacles. Levin says some owners put down three or four feet of gravel or wood chips along the fence in their yard so the dog can feel the change from grass and knows when to stop. Levin also suggests trying inexpensive scents that you already have in the house, like vanilla extract, on important locations like the bowls and the door where the dog goes outside.
Take advantage of sound as well. It’s important to keep your dog active, and some may become reluctant to take walks, at least at first. Petra Burke of Kindred Spirits Dog Training had an Australian Shepherd, Kona, who went blind at 3 and lived to 13. “I always used noise to guide him,” she says. “I put a bell on my shoe when taking walks, clapped my hands to get his attention and did a lot of talking to him.”
Kona loved playing ball, even after he went blind. As the dog was losing his sight, Burke used a ball with flashing lights, which he could still see at night. “Then when he couldn’t see that any longer, I found balls that made noise as they rolled, and he loved those,” she says. “I would only throw it a couple of feet, but that was enough to make him happy.”
There is equipment you can buy or build that might help, but be sure it’ll work for your particular situation. Ramps and stairs, for instance, can help a dog get in and out of the car or on and off the bed, but Vaughn found that the stairs were too steep and small for her large dog.
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<![CDATA[They aren't always caused by old age.]]>Tue, 19 Sep 2017 13:50:55 GMThttp://eastshelbyvilleanimalclinic.com/pet-health/they-arent-always-caused-by-old-age
Feline CataractsThe lens in a feline eye—like the lens in a human or canine eye—is a small, translucent structure that adjusts its shape as needed to focus incoming light rays on the retina, a light-sensitive tissue that lines the interior surface of the eyeball. When the retina receives light impulses that have passed through the lens, the impulses are instantaneously transmitted to the brain as visual information via the optic nerve, which is attached to the back of the eye. A cataract is a condition in which the lens becomes cloudy or totally opaque. When this happens, incoming light is impeded, if not totally prevented, from passing through the eye to the retina.
In some cases, the affected area of the lens may be tiny, and the resulting impairment in vision will be inconsequential. In other cases, however, the entire lens may be opaque, in which case total blindness will result in an affected eye. Cataracts, moreover, can be either unilateral or bilateral—affecting either one or both eyes.
According to Thomas Kern, DVM, associate professor of ophthalmology at Cornell University’s College of Veterinary Medicine, some feline cataracts develop as the result of an animal’s inability to metabolize proteins and other body chemicals, or they may in rare cases be a byproduct of such conditions as diabetes or hypertension. And older cats often get them as a natural consequence of the aging process. Other potential causes include traumatic injury that results in a perforated lens and exposure to certain drugs or toxic substances, radiation, or electric shock. In many cases, however, the cause of a cataract is unknown.
The signs of cataract-related failing vision or total loss of vision may be behavioral. A visually impaired cat may, for example, become less agile, bump into familiar furniture, or appear to have difficulty finding its food bowl or litterbox. The cat will seem reluctant to move about in unfamiliar places. And it will be tentative and noticeably cautious about going up and down stairs. “You can make life easier for the cat,” says Dr. Kern, “if you make sure to keep its food bowl and litter box in precisely the same spot at all times.”
But, he adds, the behavioral signs may be too subtle to notice. Thus, he advises, “The owner should routinely check the cat’s eyes. Look for changes in the color of the iris, for example, or see if the eye seems to be cloudy. If you see anything unusual, have the animal examined by a veterinarian.” Early treatment with a variety of medications, he notes, may prevent or delay the onset of cataract-related blindness. In some cases, for example, treatment for high blood pressure or diabetes will be effective in slowing the rate at which a cataract progresses.
In some cases, surgery may be necessary. In such a procedure, the surgeon will use an operating microscope to make small incisions, first in the cornea and then in the lens capsule before inserting an instrument that uses high-frequency sound to disintegrate and remove an affected lens. Following this procedure, an artificial lens is inserted and the incision is sutured shut.
The delicate surgery typically takes about an hour, says Dr. Kern, noting that the procedure is successful in most kittens and mature cats that have qualified as good candidates for lens implantation.
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<![CDATA[Traveling with your furry companion soon? Consider these useful tips before the trip!]]>Fri, 15 Sep 2017 13:49:51 GMThttp://eastshelbyvilleanimalclinic.com/pet-health/traveling-with-your-furry-companion-soon-consider-these-useful-tips-before-the-trip11 Things You Can Do to Make Travel Safer for You and Your Pet
  1. Ask yourself if taking your pet with you is the right thing to do(for your pet and your family). If the answer is "no," then make suitable arrangements (pet sitter, boarding kennel, etc.) for your pet. If the answer is "yes," then plan, plan, plan! 
  2. Make sure your pet will be welcome where you're heading – this includes any stops you may make along the way, as well as your final destination. 
  3. If you're crossing state lines during your travel, you need a Certificate of Veterinary Inspection(also called a health certificate). You'll need to get it within 10 days of when you plan to travel. Your veterinarian will examine your pet to make sure it doesn't have any signs of infectious disease and that it has the appropriate vaccinations (e.g., rabies). This certificate can't be legally issued without a veterinary exam, so please don't ask your veterinarian to break the law. 
  4. Make sure you know how you can find a veterinarian quickly if there's an emergency on the way to or after you've reached your destination. Online veterinary clinic locators can help you, including the American Animal Hospital Association's search and the Veterinary Emergency and Critical Care Society's emergency clinic directory
  5. Prior to travel, make sure your pet is properly identified in case they become lost. Your pet should be wearing a collar with an ID tag (with accurate information!). Microchips provide permanent identification and improve your chances of getting your pet returned to you, but make sure you keep your registration information up to date. 
  6. Properly restrain your pet with an appropriately-fitted harness or in a carrier of the appropriate size. "Appropriate size" means that they can lay down, stand up and turn around, but it's not so big that they will be thrown around inside the carrier in case of a sudden stop or a collision. No heads or bodies hanging out the windows, please, and certainly no pets in laps! That's dangerous...for everyone. 
  7. Make sure your pet is accustomed to whatever restraint you plan to use BEFORE your trip. Remember that road trips can be a little stressful on your pet. If your pet isn't already used to the harness or carrier, that's an added stress. 
  8. When traveling with your dog(s), make frequent stops to allow it/them to go to the bathroom, stretch their legs and get some mental stimulation from sniffing around and checking things out. 
  9. Take adequate food and water for the trip. Offer your pet water at each stop, and try to keep your pet's feeding schedule as close to normal as possible. 
  10. When traveling, keep a current picture of your pet with you so you can easily make "lost" posters and/or use the picture to help identify your pet if it becomes lost.
  11. Make sure you take your pet's medications with you, including any preventives (heartworm, flea and tick) that might be due while you're traveling.
​From the American Veterinary Medical Association:  https://goo.gl/ZjTQVf]]>
<![CDATA[POSITIVE TRAINING TECHNIQUES TO SOLVE SEPARATION ANXIETY]]>Tue, 17 Nov 2015 14:21:15 GMThttp://eastshelbyvilleanimalclinic.com/pet-health/positive-training-techniques-to-solve-sepaeration-anxietyYour veterinarian's consult, positive training techniques and in some cases medications, are your path to solving seperation anxiety in your pet.  Call East Shelbyville Animal Clinic for more information and/or to set a behavioral consult.
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<![CDATA[CREEPY CRAWLIES!                                                                                                              WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT INTESTINAL PARASITES]]>Fri, 30 Oct 2015 21:23:01 GMThttp://eastshelbyvilleanimalclinic.com/pet-health/creepy-crawlies-what-you-need-to-know-about-intestinal-parasitesPicture
zo·on·o·sis
a disease that can be transmitted to humans from animals.

GIVES YOU THE SHIVERS RIGHT?! INTESTINAL PARASITES ARE FOUND WITHIN THE NATURAL ENVIRONMENT. CONTAMINATION CAN OCCUR FROM DIRT TO WOODPILES TO FECAL MATTER INGESTION.  IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO PROTECT YOURSELF AND YOUR PETS FROM THESE PARASITES. REGULAR FECAL EXAMS (AT LEAST YEARLY) AND MONTHLY HEARTWORM PREVENTION YEAR ROUND WILL REDUCE YOUR RISK.  HEARTWORM PREVENTIONS ALSO CONTAIN MEDICATIONS THAT CONTROL AND PREVENT RE-INFESTATION OF CERTAIN PARASITES.  USING HEARTWORM PREVENTION YEAR ROUND, PRACTICING HANDWASHING, WASHING FRUITS AND VEGETABLES WELL AND NOT GOING BAREFOOT, YOU CAN GREATLY DECREASE YOUR PET AND FAMILY'S RISKS OF INFECTION.

Common Zoonotic Parasites


  1.  Toxocara Canis    (Roundworm)   Dogs
  •       Puppies <3 months of age are mostly affected------estimated 90-100%
  •   Tran placental or postnatal milk transmission  of ingested eggs
  •  One adult worm can produce >100,000 eggs per day
  •  Remains viable in soil for years
  •  Eggs ingested =larvae attach to small intestine =Migrate to liver and lungs =coughed up or into circulation = Tissues and inflammatory response
  • Puppies develop pot-bellied appearance, Small Intestine Enteritis/vomiting, coughing
  •  Zoonotic  (mostly ~2yr children)-----Ingested eggs  (soil, hands, toys, playgrounds, etc.)
a.  Visceral Larval Migran =iver & lungs
Abdominal pain, fever, Hepatomagely, Respiratory signs, Eosinophilia, Death with invasion of heart or brain

b.      Ocular larval migran =Eyes via circulation 
Usually unilateral disease with inflammation & loss of vision do to retinal detachment.
Asymptomatic  (routine eye exam)

c.       Neural Larval migrans =CNS
Death

2.  Toxocara Cati     (Cats)
  •  Ingested eggs, mice, birds, cockroaches and earthworm
  • No Tran placental !
  •  Post natal milk transmission
  • Not as serious in cats as dogs.  Vomit/loose stool
  • Zoonotic
a.  Ocular and visceral larvae migrans in people

3.  Ancylostoma Caninum    (Hookworms)Dogs
 Tubaeforme    Cats
  • Most severe in puppies <3 weeks of age =severe Anemia/fatal
  • No Tran placental transmission
  • Larva in mammary glands = milk contamination =nursing puppies
  •  Eggs found damp, sandy soil, sandboxes, & beaches
(crawl spaces, under houses & porches)
  • Zoonotic—skin contact with larva (contaminated soil)=bloodstream =lungs =coughed up & swallowed =small intestine
a.       Cutaneous larva migrans “creeping eruption”—intensely pruritic dermatitis with tortuous tracts of erythema (hand & feet)---self limiting

b.      Eosinophilic Enteritis (acute or chronic)---Recurrent abdominal pain, small bowel thickening, inflamed/ulcerated ilecum & colon.

4.  Bayisacaris      (Raccoon Ascarid)
  •  Raccoons are carriers and shed millions of eggs per day in feces
  • Contaminates woodpiles/decks/rooftops
  •  Larva migrates to internal organs/brain/eyes
  •  Neural larva migrans Þ fatal or severe neurologic disease/Encephalitis
  • Ocular signs similar to Toxocara
  •  Egg size smaller than roundworms 

Common Non-Zoonotic Parasites


  1. Trichuris Vulpis   (Whipworms)
  • Usually adult dogs affected
  • Ingested eggs containing infected larva = larva = Glandular Epithalium of cecum/colon = watery/bloody diarrhea
  • No reasonable, effective means of decontamination of environmental soil (remove topsoil/paving)
  • Most human whipworms are due to Trichuris trichiure but Zoonotic—T. Vulpis infections are occasionally reported.

   2.      Dipylidium Caninum 
(Tapeworm)
  •  Ingested fleas or lice
  • Doesn’t cause many symptoms except proglottids at anal area
  •  Intermittently shed proglottids (fecal negative)
  • Children only develop if swallow fleas

     3.    Dipylidium Taenia    (Tapeworm)
  •  From ingested prey    (rabbit, mice, etc.)

EAST SHELBYVILLE ANIMAL CLINIC
731 MOUNT EDEN ROAD
SHELBYVILLE, KY  40065
502-633-2061
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<![CDATA[START FROM SCRATCH!/FLEA-POCOLYPSE!]]>Fri, 30 Oct 2015 21:22:49 GMThttp://eastshelbyvilleanimalclinic.com/pet-health/start-from-scratchflea-pocolypseFACTS ABOUT FLEAS
  1. If you see 5 fleas on your pet there are 95 immature fleas (eggs, larvae and pupae) in the house and yard.
  2. Adult fleas live 10 to 60 days: 1 female flea can lay 150,000 eggs in her lifetime.
  3. Flea allergy dermatitis is the most common animal skin condition in the world.
  4. There is a difference between fleas on a pet and flea allergy.  Flea allergy is an allergic reaction to flea saliva. 1 flea can set off intense itching.  If a pet is not allergic it may have many fleas but only mild scratching.  Flea allergy dermatitis is characterized by intense itching, redness and hair loss along the back, thighs, tail, head and under the tummy.  Scratching, biting and licking may remove the fleas making it harder to diagnose their presence.
  5. Fleas suck blood.  72 fleas can consume 1 ml of blood in a day.  Kittens and pups can die of flea anemia.
  6. Fleas are intermediate hosts for tapeworms and are carriers of several infectious diseases.
  7. YOU CANNOT GET RID OF FLEAS UNLESS YOU TREAT ALL PETS IN THE HOUSEHOLD AND ALL ASPECTS OF THE ENVIRONMENT.
EAST SHELBYVILLE ANIMAL CLINIC
731 MOUNT EDEN ROAD
SHELBYVILLE, KY  40065
502-633-2061
FLEA CONTROL
  1. Neighbor’s pets and wildlife can bring flea eggs into your yard.  If your neighbor’s pets have fleas they can end up at your house, too.
  2. Dog parks or any other place where pets come together are a potential hot spot for fleas.  You can also have fleas in your vehicle if your pet rides with you.
  3. Immature fleas thrive in cool shady places (under decks, shaded landscaping, crawl spaces, tall vegetation uncut fields, woodlands).  They die in areas mostly exposed to full sun.
  4. Immature fleas survive a long time in pet bedding, people bedding, carpet, baseboard areas, upholstered furniture, cushions and under furniture.
OUTSIDE FLEA CONTROL
  1. Bar access by the pet to potential outside trouble spots.  Allow exercise only in short-cut exposed fields/lawns.
  2. Clean up organic debris in outside “hot spots”.
  3. Treat outside problem areas (see #3 above) with a pesticide registered for outside use.  Microencapsulated formulas have a longer residual.  Powders and granular forms last longer than liquids.  FOLLOW LABEL DIRECTIONS!
INSIDE FLEA CONTROL
  1. Nontraditional pesticides:  the only compound that works is sodium borate (borax).  It kills eggs and larvae by drying them out. Owner-applied and professionally- applied products (Rx for Fleas, Inc) are available.  They must be thoroughly worked into all the environmental flea sources in the house.
  2. Traditional pesticides are available as sprays and foggers.  They contain an adult insecticide such as pyrethrin or permethrin plus an insect growth regulator such as methoprene or fenoxycarb.  They are labeled as effective against both adult and pre-adult fleas.  Area sprays are more effective than foggers because they can be applied under furniture and onto hallways.
Picture
flickr.com/donnieray
IF YOU CHOOSE TO TREAT FLEAS YOURSELF
  1. Thoroughly vacuum with a powerful machine everywhere in the house, paying special attention to furniture, cushions, pet bedding, baseboards, carpets and places where pets rest.  Throw away the vacuum bag.
  2. Steam clean carpets.  Be sure to treat with a pesticide after.
  3. Wash all bedding and dry in the hot sun or in a dryer on the hottest setting.
  4. Use a pesticide labeled for indoor use and for both adult and pre-adult fleas.  Area sprays work better than foggers.  FOLLOW LABEL DIRECTIONS!
  5. Re-treat in 14 days, then every 30 to 90 days.
REMEMBER!---IF YOU HAVE A SEVERE, LONG-TERM OR RECURRING FLEA PROBLEM IT MAY COST LESS IN THE LONG RUN TO HIRE A PROFESSIONAL EXTERMINATOR.  MOST FAILURES OF FLEA CONTROL ARE DUE TO POOR APPLICATION PROCEDURES AND NOT PRODUCT FAILURE.

A GUIDE TO FLEA PRODUCTS USED ON PETS
Monthly products are available from your veterinarian.  They have a high level of safety, effectiveness and quite low potential for toxicity. Most will stand up to weekly bathing;

1.      Frontline Plus kills fleas, ticks and keeps new flea eggs from hatching in the environment.

2.      Advantage kills fleas

3.      Advantage Multi prevents fleas, heartworms and some intestinal parasites

4.      Seresto collar prevents fleas and ticks for 8 months

5.      Promeris kills fleas: for cats only. New product.  Time will tell!

         Products used weekly or so are generally available over the counter.  They have a fair safety profile, fair effectiveness and some increased potential for toxicity. It is extremely important to follow label directions on these  products  They usually include pyrethrins, permethrins,or carbaryl plus a potentiator such as piperonyl butoxide.

        Most 0TC sprays, powders, shampoos, collars and spot-on type products contain these products.  They last 1- 2   weeks.

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<![CDATA[FIFI'S NOT MAD AT YOU, IT JUST HURTS TO PEE]]>Fri, 30 Oct 2015 21:22:37 GMThttp://eastshelbyvilleanimalclinic.com/pet-health/fifis-not-mad-at-you-it-just-hurts-to-pee
Feline Urinary Tract Disease (FLUTD)

FLUTD is a syndrome which causes inflammation of the bladder and/or urethra resulting in painful urination, muscle spasms and inappropriate urinations (urinating outside the litter box).  Cats also exhibit frequent trips to the litter box, straining to urinate, vocalizing while in the litter box, and producing small amounts of urine which can be bloody or blood-tinged.  Typically, FLUTD is most common in neutered male cats between 3-7 years of age but it can happen with female cats as well.  The cause of the disease is still unknown, but stressful situations have been associated with flare-ups.  Diet can also be a factor.   Diets which allow for an abnormal urinary pH level can cause crystals to develop which result in bladder inflammation.  Left untreated, crystals can bind together to form bladder stones.

In its most severe form, FLUTD can cause complete obstruction of the urinary tract.  When present, the obstruction can be composed of mucus or crystal plug which lodges in the urethra at the tip.  A cat which is not able to urinate is an absolute emergency.  
            
           


Cats become extremely ill with lethargy, vomiting, and lack of appetite due to the toxins circulating in the body which the kidneys are not able to remove because of the obstruction.  These cats will die if not treated!

Treatment of an obstructed cat involves passing a urinary catheter (under sedation) and administering IV fluids to flush out waste products from the kidneys and the bladder.  X-rays to rule out bladder stones and urinalysis with urine culture are done to help guide therapy.  Typically cats remain hospitalized for 1-3 days for therapy.  

EAST SHELBYVILLE ANIMAL CLINIC
731 MOUNT EDEN
SHELBYVILLE, KY  40065
502-633-2061
 The urinary catheter is removed once the voided urine is clear in color.  Cats which have been obstructed can have a 50/50 chance of re-obstruction once the urinary catheter is removed.  When the cat is urinating on their own, they are discharged from the hospital.  Most cats are sent home with an antibiotic and pain medication.  

To help prevent FLUTD signs and recurrence of obstruction, it is common to change the cat’s diet to a urinary tract formula.  It is important to feed a diet with plenty of water content to help keep the urine dilute.  For this reason, we recommend feeding a 50/50 ratio of canned and dry urinary tract formula.  It is also very important for the cat to have unlimited access to fresh water.  Place a separate source of water away from the cat’s food bowl.  Try to increase water consumption by offering filtered water, putting ice cubes in the water bowl, or mixing chicken broth/tuna juice with the water.  Be sure to change the water bowl frequently as spoiling can be an issue.  We also recommend you purchase a water fountain from any pet store to make drinking more fun for your cat.  

Litter boxes must be kept accessible, scooped daily and completely cleaned once weekly.  Offer different types of litter to find the one most preferred by your cat.  Rule of thumb is one litter box per cat in the house plus one.  Offer different sizes of litter boxes in several places throughout the house.  If your cat has soiled areas outside the litter box, these areas must be cleaned and deodorized.  A number of commercial cleaning products are available at pet stores.

Regular exercise is very important for your cat to help with stress relief.  Strive to have play time daily with your cat to keep him/her stimulated and stress free.  Look for toys that mimic prey motion or intermittently release food.  Another good idea is to purchase vertical surfaces (i.e. cat tree) for play and exercise.  Provide surfaces for your cat to climb and areas in which to hide, perch, look outside and rest undisturbed.

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